How to seal garage door?
Most garage draughts come from the bottom seal and the side stop moulding rather than through the door itself. Both are genuinely DIY parts. Replace the bottom seal to match the retainer profile on your door, and check that the floor itself is level enough for the seal to meet it.
- Common leak point
- Bottom seal
- Match
- Retainer profile
- Uneven gap means
- Balance or track
- Verdict
- Safe to DIY
The short version
- The bottom seal slides into a retainer; match the profile (T-style, bead, U-shape) before buying.
- Side and top stop moulding carries its own flexible flap and is usually nailed to the jamb.
- A threshold seal bonded to the floor helps where the slab has settled or slopes inward.
- Rodents and insects enter at the same gaps, so sealing is a pest fix as much as a draught fix.
- A gap that is much larger on one side is usually a balance or track problem, not a seal problem.
How does a garage door actually hold its own weight?
A garage door is not lifted by the opener — it is lifted by the spring, and the opener only guides it. A residential door weighs 85 to 400 pounds, and the counterbalance holds that weight so the motor only has to overcome friction. That is why springs and cables are professional work while sensors and remotes are not: one group holds the stored energy and the other does not.
Garage door safety covers the balance test and what an unbalanced door does to an opener.
What is the one-minute test everyone should be doing?
The reversal test, monthly, with a 2x4 laid flat in the door's path: it must reverse on contact. If it does not, stop using the opener until it is adjusted, repaired or replaced. It matters because this system fails silently — a door whose reversal has stopped working looks and sounds exactly like one that still does. CPSC recommends inspecting the door and opener every 30 days.
Children, pets and the garage door covers why the standard exists.
At what point should I stop and call someone?
- The door is very heavy by hand with the opener disconnected. The counterbalance has failed.
- You can see a gap in the spring coil, or a cable that is frayed, slack, or off its drum.
- The door sits crooked, higher on one side, or has come off its track. It is still under full tension.
- The door does not reverse on the board test. The entrapment protection is not working.
None of those is calling too early, and the rule worth teaching at home comes from that same federal text: “NEVER GO UNDER A STOPPED PARTIALLY OPEN DOOR.”
Questions that come up next
Does a door that reverses mean something is broken?
No — the opposite. A door that stops and goes back up when it touches something is the entrapment protection doing exactly what 16 CFR 1211 requires. The fault worth investigating is a door that fails to reverse.
Can I disable the photo eyes to get the door closed?
No. That removes the external entrapment protection required since 1993, and it is the protection that exists because of the CPSC child fatality record. If a sensor is genuinely faulty, replace it — it is among the cheapest parts on the door.
Is it safe to use the emergency release with the door open?
The federally required manual text says to use it only when the door is closed wherever possible, because weak or broken springs may allow the door to fall rapidly. A great deal of DIY content advises the opposite.
Should I replace one spring or both?
If the door has two, quote both. The second is the same age and has taken the same number of cycles, so it is next. This is one of the few upsells in the trade that is genuinely honest.
Common mistakes
- Buying a seal without checking the retainer profile. A T-style seal will not stay in a bead retainer, and it will fall out on the first cold morning.
- Sealing a gap that is caused by a crooked door. You are treating the symptom. An uneven gap usually means the door is out of balance.
- Nailing stop moulding tight against the door. It should just touch. Pressed hard, it drags the door and wears the seal in a season.
Also asked as
Does cold weather change it?
Cold stiffens the weather seal and any grease in the rollers and hinges, so a door that runs fine in July can strain in January and trip the opener's force sensing. Ice bonding the bottom seal to the slab is the other common winter cause: the opener reads the stuck seal as an obstruction and reverses, which is the safety system working correctly.
Sources
- Door and Access Systems Manufacturers Association — technical data sheets — DASMATier 2
- Publication 523 — Non-Reversing Automatic Garage Door Openers Are a Hazard — US Consumer Product Safety CommissionTier 1 accessed
- International Energy Conservation Code — International Code CouncilTier 1