Remotes, keypads & programming

How does a garage door actually hold its own weight?

A garage door is not lifted by the opener — it is lifted by the spring, and the opener only guides it. A residential door weighs 85 to 400 pounds, and the counterbalance holds that weight so the motor only has to overcome friction. That is why springs and cables are professional work while sensors and remotes are not: one group holds the stored energy and the other does not.

Garage door safety covers the balance test and what an unbalanced door does to an opener.

Is the fault the remote, or the opener?

Press the wall button. That one press separates the two halves of the system: if the door runs from the wall control but not from the remote, the opener and the door are fine and the fault is in the remote or its pairing. If neither works, the problem is upstream — power, the logic board, or the door itself.

Assuming the wall button works, replace the remote battery before anything else. It is the most common cause and the cheapest to rule out. A remote that works within a few feet of the opener but not from the driveway is usually a weak battery rather than a failed transmitter.

If a fresh battery does not fix it, re-pair the remote. Modern openers use rolling codes, which change the transmitted code on every press, so a remote cannot simply be cloned from another and a lost pairing has to be re-established at the opener.

One case worth separating: if the remote works but only intermittently and only at certain times of day, suspect radio interference rather than the remote. LED bulbs in the opener head are a well-known culprit.

Why exactly is this professional-only work?

Because the stored energy does not go away when the door stops moving, and you can work out how much there is rather than take our word for it.

The work needed to raise a door is its weight times its travel. A common insulated steel double door weighs around 200 pounds and travels 7 feet, so the spring stores roughly 1,400 foot-pounds. A 400 pound wood door doubles it.

The important part is not the figure but when it is present. It does not appear while the door moves and vanish when it stops: a closed door means a fully loaded spring. That load is released through whatever is in contact with the spring the instant control is lost, and during a spring change that means the winding bars and the hands holding them.

Cables and the bottom bracket sit in the same category for the same reason — they carry that load whenever the door is closed. It is why the bottom bracket is often marked at the factory as the one fitting a homeowner must not unbolt.

See why springs are professional-only work for the full breakdown.

What does a technician do, and how do I know the price is fair?

Knowing the job is what lets you judge the quote, so it is worth understanding even though you will not be doing it.

On a torsion system the technician secures the door, releases the remaining tension in controlled increments using correctly sized winding bars, unloads the cables from the drums, replaces the spring on the shaft, rewinds it to a calculated number of turns derived from the door weight and drum diameter, re-tensions the cables, and tests the balance by hand. The winding count is calculated, not judged by feel.

A comparable quote names five things: the exact part, its cycle rating, whether it is one spring or two, whether cables and bearings are being replaced at the same time, and the warranty separately on parts and on labour. A quote that omits the cycle rating cannot be compared to another, because a 10,000-cycle spring and a 100,000-cycle spring look identical on paper.

We do not publish a national price, because the published sources disagree with each other and none documents its method. Get two written quotes and compare them line by line. How to spot an unnecessary repair quote covers the red flags.

What does federal law actually require here?

Every residential opener manufactured since January 1, 1993 for US sale must meet 16 CFR 1211: a closing door must begin reversing within 2 seconds of hitting an obstruction, a second independent protection system must exist, and the manual release must be red. §1211.16(b) also fixes the exact words your manual carries — among them “Have a qualified service person make repairs to cables, spring assemblies and other hardware.” — which is why this page's verdict is not our opinion.

What UL 325 and 16 CFR 1211 require covers the full standard.

What is the one-minute test everyone should be doing?

The reversal test, monthly, with a 2x4 laid flat in the door's path: it must reverse on contact. If it does not, stop using the opener until it is adjusted, repaired or replaced. It matters because this system fails silently — a door whose reversal has stopped working looks and sounds exactly like one that still does. CPSC recommends inspecting the door and opener every 30 days.

Children, pets and the garage door covers why the standard exists.

How long does this actually last, and why is it measured in cycles?

Springs are rated in cycles, not years, and one cycle is one opening plus one closing. That is the difference between a specification and a rule of thumb, and it explains why two identical doors last different lengths of time.

A standard spring is typically rated at about 10,000 cycles. High-cycle springs, wound from thicker wire on a larger inside diameter, run 25,000 to 100,000.

Translate that to your own house. At 4 cycles a day — leaving for work, back at lunch, one errand — that is 1,460 cycles a year, so 10,000 cycles is a little under 6.8 years. A household with teenagers and two cars burns through them well before the "seven to ten years" figure that gets repeated everywhere.

The cycle rating is a manufacturer specification rather than a standard, so you have to ask for it. It is also the number that makes two quotes comparable: without it, a cheap spring and a good one look identical on paper.

What should this cost, and why do we not publish a figure?

We do not publish a national average because we could not find a source that holds up. The estimate sites disagree with each other, none documents its method, and repeating a figure we cannot trace would be exactly the problem this site exists to avoid.

What we can give you is the shape of a comparable quote. It should separate four lines: the part and its specification, the labour, what is being replaced at the same time, and the warranty — separately — on the part and on the work.

Get two written quotes before accepting either, and compare them line by line rather than on the total. Two matching totals can hide a spring with a third of the rated life of the other.

Emergency and after-hours rates exist, but we found no sourceable figure for those either, so we do not invent one. Our position on costs explains the full reasoning.

At what point should I stop and call someone?

• The door is very heavy by hand with the opener disconnected. The counterbalance has failed.
• You can see a gap in the spring coil, or a cable that is frayed, slack, or off its drum.
• The door sits crooked, higher on one side, or has come off its track. It is still under full tension.
• The door does not reverse on the board test. The entrapment protection is not working.

None of those is calling too early, and the rule worth teaching at home comes from that same federal text: “NEVER GO UNDER A STOPPED PARTIALLY OPEN DOOR.”

Questions that come up next

Does a door that reverses mean something is broken?

No — the opposite. A door that stops and goes back up when it touches something is the entrapment protection doing exactly what 16 CFR 1211 requires. The fault worth investigating is a door that fails to reverse.

Can I disable the photo eyes to get the door closed?

No. That removes the external entrapment protection required since 1993, and it is the protection that exists because of the CPSC child fatality record. If a sensor is genuinely faulty, replace it — it is among the cheapest parts on the door.

Is it safe to use the emergency release with the door open?

The federally required manual text says to use it only when the door is closed wherever possible, because weak or broken springs may allow the door to fall rapidly. A great deal of DIY content advises the opposite.

Should I replace one spring or both?

If the door has two, quote both. The second is the same age and has taken the same number of cycles, so it is next. This is one of the few upsells in the trade that is genuinely honest.